July 17, 2014 Norwalk : from CONNECTICUT POST

South Norwalk, after a integrate of years of relations dormancy, seems to be entrance alive again. With a appearance of new condominiums and bureau spaces, there is most some-more feet traffic, and those folks get hungry. All of that is good news for this ancestral partial of town, and Quartino Trattoria Vineria is front and core of this trend.

Located in one of a poetic aged buildings on Washington Street in a heart of SoNo, a ambiance takes advantage of a aged unprotected section walls, illusory Italian panorama murals and rough-hewn timber flooring. Though flanked by other determined Italian restaurants, Quartino sets itself detached with a thoroughness on classical dishes finished good and an interesting, well-priced booze list with many affordable options accessible by a easily poured glass.

The owner, Giuseppe Cinque, is no foreigner to internal restaurants and his customers seems to have loyally followed him to SoNo, substantially for his courtesy to peculiarity ingredients, that is generally apparent in a preference of antipasti, either a elementary arrangement of burrata cheese, summery tomatoes, prosciutto and sprouting basil, or a light and uninformed hold with skinny slices of eggplant plumped with uninformed ricotta stuffing and melted mozzarella in a easily corpulent San Marzano tomato sauce. Other starters embody a combo of mussels, shrimp and calamari in white booze and tomato broth, or a somewhat underfried, though differently juicy brew of boiled calamari and zucchini strips with a piquant tomato salsa and a honeyed vinegar salsa for dipping.

Salads are splendid and bountiful, either classical Caesar or a anniversary mixture of watermelon chunks with tomato, arugula, onions and hunger nuts in a lemon vinaigrette. Soups operation from a ethereal classical stracciatella to a robust pasta fagiole that would advantage from an decoration of uninformed herbs.

Pastas are a highlight, generally a poetic linguine with sea clams aromatic of an glorious olive oil and booze broth, though orecchiette with broccoli rabe, sausage and pepperoncino is a tighten second. Other options embody paccheri with veal and cremini mushrooms, light potato gnocchi and a lofty display of spaghetti with olives, capers and tomato tossed and served in a circle of pecorino Romano

The residence specials categorical march is duck scarparello that, nonetheless all a classical mixture of chicken, sausage and roasted potatoes are present, tastes a bit sleepy and in need of an herbal lift. Much some-more appealing is branzino with broccoli rabe or classical renditions of duck Parmigianino or Milanese.

Desserts need work. Apple spicy is a tad slimy and tasteless while prettily presented chocolate budino has an infrequently sticking texture. Excellent hazelnut gelato accompanies both and is a easily honeyed ending.

Quartino Trattoria Vineria has a lot going for it — gifted owners and an appreciation of peculiarity mixture and classical cooking.

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